Small Molecule Interactions with Hair
From glycolic acid to panthenol to coconut oil, small molecules penetrate hair fibers reducing fly-away, improving strength and moisturization.
The underlying science of penetration into the protein matrix and of performance of penetrants in chemically damaged hair provides understanding of which molecules might prove even more valuable, which delivery systems will enable benefit from these molecules.
TRI’s excellence in consumer acceptability testing and in the use of instrumental measures of product performance enables developers to progress in optimizing formulations.
Current Research Programs :
Measurement and Impact of Deposited Material
- HPLC, XRF, FTIR
- Fluorescent Approaches
- SEM
Measure Surface Effects
- Contact Angle Scanning
Delivery and Penetration into Hair via Fiber Stress Relaxation
TRI is pleased to announce a new experimental measure of fiber penetration and delivery showing the extent and kinetics of effective penetration into the fiber. There is considerable interest in delivery and penetration of hair fibers but also a real gap in our ability to monitor kinetics and effectiveness of penetration from formulation. Work to date has demonstrated that aqueous formulation changes affect how effectively and how quickly formulations penetrate into the hair shaft.
The new technique has been derived from Wickett’s1 method of stress relaxation developed for use with depilatories. By using a new experimental design and focusing on the plasticization of hydrogen bonds, great sensitivity can be obtained for comparison of the penetration and softening of hair fibers by formulated products. The new method focuses on three key parameters: rate of softening, final stress and decay of stress.
TRI is currently in the process of enrolling partners to apply this technique to provide new and valuable information to ongoing research topics in personal care. Please contact us if you would like more information on this exciting new research program or partnership opportunities.
References
1. Wickett R.R. Kinetic studies of hair reduction using a single fiber technique. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1983: 34: 301-16.
Hair & Skin Dynamics
Time Dependent Response
Economists often dismiss asymptotic thinking with the phrase, in the long run, we are all dead. With regard to hair and skin, in the long run, we are all dry. Response to change, regular saturation during wash all drive dynamics and change in hair and skin. From a technical point of view, the need to have simply described and analyzed outcomes has long led to the experimental practice of attempting to equilibrate subjects before performing skin measurements. In a variety of contexts, from water transport in hair fibers to the onset of sweat production in skin, we are collecting and successfully analyzing time dependent measures. Applications include management of optical effects from product films during dry-down, managing moisture in hair, soft and smooth technologies.
Hair Biology
Hair follicles are excretatory organs whose product traps evidence of metabolic status and chemical exposure in hair fibers, an efficient and stable storage medium. TRI has systems to handle large number of individual fibers enabling the exploration of time dependent changes in these materials. These tools have application in research on hair growth research as well as to problems in endocrine regulation, hair disease, drug use and compliance.