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TRI Publishes 7-Article Supplement in IJCS

11 minutes ago
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The Textured Hair Consortium Supplement, with Guest Editor: Dr David E. Graham


The TRI team has been busy preparing a special 7-article supplement for the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. These outputs, representing several years of research and development, are the result of the Textured Hair Consortium project, which ran between 2019 and 2021 and was a collaboration between TRI and 10 partner companies: Aveda, Bumble and Bumble, BASF, Croda, L’Oreal, Lubrizol, P&G, Symrise, Syensqo and Unilever. (N.B. Syensqo joined the project as Solvay, Aveda and Bumble and Bumble are both part of Estée Lauder, and one sponsor wishes to remain anonymous).


Woman with curly hair in a white off-shoulder top holds a black hair dryer against a gray studio backdrop.

This consortium builds upon previous work the TRI team has completed in this field, where early findings were presented at the TRI Multi-Ethnic Hair & Scalp Care Symposium 2020 (with recordings available in the TRI Library), and was specifically designed to ‘accelerate innovation in the textured hair category by providing sponsors with a deeper scientific understanding of key problems associated with curly hair textures and technical routes to address unmet consumer needs’. The project was split into three areas: scalp health, hair breakage, and product evaluation methods.


At TRI we know that the research and development of products specifically designed for textured hair is a rapidly expanding field and is of great interest to our Member Companies. However, there are large gaps in our scientific understanding of this area, for example around breakage, the incidence of scalp complains, and the performance of product claims tests. The publishing of these results will help plug this gap and provide valuable insight and commentary to this important field of research.


The ‘Textured Hair Consortium Supplement’ is Open Access, and available through the International Journal of Cosmetic Science website, as well as in the TRI Library.




A summary of the papers and their titles is available below:


Scalp health

  • Hair curl type, hair habits and scalp heath, part 1: Clinical studies, by Samuel Gourion-Arsiquaud, Rezma Shrestha, Matthieu Jomier and Paul Cornwell, with work undertaken in conjunction with Newtone Inc.

  • Hair curl type and scalp health, part 2: FTIR spectroscopy studies and analysis of inflammatory cytokines, by Samuel Gourion-Arsiquaud, Rezma Shrestha and Paul Cornwell.


Hair Breakage

  • Use of single fibre fatiguing experiments to understand breakage in textured hair Part I, by Trefor Evans

  • Use of single fibre fatiguing experiments to understand breakage in textured hair part 2: Testing panellists hair, by Trefor Evans

  • Effects of curl type on hair fracture patterns in non-chemically treated hair, by Alison Robinson, Paul Cornwell and Ernesta Malinauskyte


Product evaluation methods

  • Methods adapted to evaluate products for textured hair: Combing force and breakage, by Ernesta Malinauskyte, Katerin Mateo, Ayinoluwa Abegunde and Chantal Adlam

  • Methods adapted to evaluate products for textured hair: Shine, curl shrinkage, flexibility and consumer-perceived hair porosity, by Leila Sorrells, Laurence Senak, Xu Kang, Ayinoluwa Abegunde, Marquita Braxton and Ernesta Malinauskyte




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